The design brand has been celebrating the artistry of traditional woollen crafts for the last eight years, bringing a unique contemporary aesthetic to age-old techniques. Roddy Clarke meets the studio’s founders and explores the mindful and conscious creativity that sets the brand apart
Photography courtesy of Gushka
Words by Roddy Clarke
Nestled in the heart of the Carpathian mountains, close to the ancient city of Kosiv, resides Gushka – a Ukrainian creative studio and social enterprise driven by a mission to preserve a much-loved but declining local craft. Working with wool sourced from Ukrainian sheep that roam freely in the pastures of Hutsulshchyna, a national park located approximately three hours from the city, the studio’s founders are reigniting a love for weaving by creating a selection of contemporary homewares made through the application of age-old practices unique to the region.
Weaving goes back three to four generations within the local area, and in 2016 locals Oleg Lukaniuk and Daryna Furmaniuk realised that it was on a rapid decline. Despite many other local crafts flourishing, this specific skillset had been put to one side. ‘People had burnt their looms and were afraid to say that they were masters of the craft of weaving,’ explains Furmaniuk. ‘Woven designs were then priced cheaply for a reason, as they were being produced with low- quality methods, so we felt compelled and challenged to change the way people viewed the craft.’
Reaching out to a third-generation weaver and local neighbour, Lyubov Rybenchuk, they began orchestrating workshops under her guidance, aimed at those seeking to learn the craft from scratch. And, as this resonated across the local community, the duo then went on to expand their initiative by employing experienced artisans and scaling the production capacity of the products they had begun designing. From rugs to cushions, pillows and bedspreads, the beauty of the craft is now finding a new relevance in the contemporary design world today, and is constructed on the same looms used by ancestors of the craft decades ago.
Photography courtesy of Gushka
‘Our focus has always been on reviving the local Carpathian crafts and bringing them forward with a modern-day relevance,’ says Furmaniuk. She explains their passion to preserve the valuable traditions passed down from previous generations: ‘We recognised the potential of transforming wool weaving, a craft deeply rooted in sheep farming, and reimagined it through a social enterprise. The people are certainly the heartbeat of our brand, shaping its identity and legacy.’
The brand is founded on principles of sustainability and transparency, with a desire to create beautiful designs for the home while harmoniously collaborating with both people and planet. The cycle of production revolves around the annual tradition of sheep shearing at the end of winter – something which remains an important event within the region. On collecting the wool, a meticulous process of cleaning and preparation begins, to ensure the fibres can be transformed into homewares and garments, with the utmost quality in mind. Impurities such as dirt and oil are removed; the wool is then carded, transforming the curly fibres into soft and fluffy sheets which can then be spun into yarn.
Depending on the method used, the yarn is converted into fine strands for garment production or thicker threads suitable for knitting. ‘Each product balances the practical with the emotional, ensuring every piece isn’t just functional, but also a bearer of sentiment,’ explains Furmaniuk, offering an insight into the making process. ‘Each design we create is an ode to the Carpathian way of life, where sheep, cheese, hills and the perennial need for warmth and comfort dictate the rhythm of life.’
Photography courtesy of Gushka
With this deep respect for nature and the animals it works with, Furmaniuk explains how the brand’s design aesthetic is largely stimulated by the natural world. ‘I am inspired by the simple elements of everyday life and the palettes and shapes seen in nature,’ she says. ‘I always think that we have nothing to invent in a new way because nature has already created everything long before humanity began.’
While also drawing on the cultural influences of the region, it remains apparent that the seasonal beauty of how the mountains evolve and adapt in form is like an ever-changing mood-board offering a continual source of fresh inspiration to the team. Centred on its deep, emotive connection to the heritage of this local craft, Gushka is hoping that through passion and determination it can reignite an appreciation from a wider global audience, allowing it to be sustained for generations to come.
And, despite the challenges of Covid-19 and the ongoing war changing the country entirely, the couple say how the essence of Gushka has remained steadfast through it all. ‘Our creations have become more than just products,’ explains Furmaniuk. ‘They have become symbols of warmth, comfort and resilience. Through home confinement and harsh winters, we hope it has been an uplifting embrace to many.’
Presenting a heartwarming tale of creativity, brands such as Gushka are helping to shine a light on the importance of preserving the valuable skillsets that are intertwined within local communities across the world. Through preserving the past, the beautiful legacy of Carpathian weaving can thrive long into the future.
The story originally appeared in ICON 215, Spring/Summer 2024. Get a curated collection of design and architecture news in your inbox by signing up to our ICON Weekly newsletter
