As a voice for sustainability, fashion designer Patrick McDowell has gone from strength to strength since their studio launch in 2018. From dressing stars for the red carpet to theatrical runway presentations, McDowell’s ability to create with both people and planet in mind sets them apart
Photography by Lorenzo Berni featuring Patrick McDowell’s A/W 2024 collection
Words by Roddy Clarke
Describing their fashion design journey as a ‘sustainable rollercoaster’, Patrick McDowell is continuing to turn heads in the industry with an unwavering commitment to circularity. A refreshing alternative to an industry plagued with environmental issues, McDowell’s business model is based on limited-edition and made-to-order collections, constructed entirely from recycled and responsibly manufactured materials.
In turning away from seasonality and the need to conform to the fast-paced cycles of the global fashion world, the designer is creating garments that are designed to last, with an added complimentary service that allows clients to alter, refit or redesign the piece if needed down the line.
Working with materials such as TENCEL, made from wood pulp, and deadstock fabrics, the designer crafts each creation by hand from their London studio. McDowell’s latest collection, Orpheus’ Ball, presented at London Fashion Week in February, was yet another reminder of their ability to show that sustainability does not mean a compromise on aesthetic or quality.
Photography by Lorenzo Berni featuring Patrick McDowell and a model wearing a piece from his A/W 2024 collection
Unconventional materials combined with voluminous silhouettes and dynamic prints produce a show-stopping, avant-garde aesthetic that is becoming popular with many, including an array of star-studded clientele. And, in building a loyal community of admirers, the designer’s ‘out-of-the-box’ approach goes beyond the materials and aesthetic, with catwalk presentations reimagined into standalone immersive performances.
McDowell collaborated with the Guildhall School of Music and Drama for the most recent presentation, on the stage of London’s Milton Court Concert Hall. Models displayed McDowell’s creations as dancers and actors performed in an enticing theatrical production, featuring an original score of blended classical musical pieces arranged by Gavin Roberts, the school’s professor of vocal and academic studies.
McDowell speaks of the partnership as one of the highlights of their career. ‘It really was a dream come true. As a creative, it was incredible to create a fashion collection around such an iconic institution and connect with the dancers and musicians in a real and unified way.’
Photography by Lorenzo Berni featuring a closeup of Patrick McDowell’s A/W 2024 collection
The collection itself took inspiration from the movement of musicians during a performance, while alluding to McDowell’s personal background growing up in Liverpool. ‘It is a city steeped in rich musical history,’ they state. ‘I was nurtured by its cultural embrace, and it became clear to me that music and fashion share a strong connection. Both are expressions of art, exuding drama and carrying messages that resonate deeply.’
From deconstructed discarded instruments to prints featuring the original musical score of Orpheus’ Ball to figure-hugging corsets and reimagined orchestral blazers, the presentation was a visual and sensory feast. ‘I was inspired by the orchestra,’ they continue. ‘As a child I played brass instruments and throughout my life I’ve been in awe of the arts. With each collection now showcased as collaborations with artistic institutions, it is extremely fulfilling to work in a more meaningful and deeper way.’
On a wider scale, McDowell feels optimistic that change is taking place in the industry as legislation and mindset come together as a conduit for progress: ‘It’s been incredible to witness the shift that has happened in recent years, and I’m so excited to see the leaps and bounds we can make as an industry in the coming years too.’
Photography by Lorenzo Berni featuring Patrick McDowell and a model wearing a piece from his A/W 2024 collection
With a personal vision to further grow a sustainable luxury brand that continues to disrupt the traditional fashion business model long into the future, McDowell’s passion, focus and dedication is clear.
Leaving no stone unturned in creating a closed-loop business model, the designer is helping to reinvent the role of the fashion designer by morphing into a pioneer for change. Beyond the creation of garments, McDowell is helping us to visualise a new future for fashion: one that nurtures the creativity of younger talent, while offering a safe and inclusive environment for all – a fashion industry that is truly centred on the wellbeing of both people and planet.
The story originally appeared in ICON 215, Spring/Summer 2024. Get a curated collection of design and architecture news in your inbox by signing up to our ICON Weekly newsletter
