As one of the most forward-thinking designers working in fashion today, Cecilie Bahnsen’s romantic and ethereal fashion seamlessly blends couture elements and Scandinavian comfort. In our exclusive interview, she shares her remarkable journey
Photography courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen
Interview by Jessica-Christin Hametner
With an unwavering commitment to ethical practices, craftsmanship and timeless designs, Danish designer Cecilie Bahnsen has carved out a distinct space of her own. Dedicated to making long-lasting, quality products, in this interview, we sit down with Bahnsen to delve into her Japan’s street style; we find out how her notions of ‘everyday couture’ came to life; and discuss why she believes it is possible to create and live from what you love.
ICON: You have learned to sew and embroider from your grandmother. Later, you studied at the Danish Design School in Copenhagen and London’s Royal College of Art. During your career, you have also worked with John Galliano at Dior. Did you always know you wanted to become a designer?
Cecilie Bahnsen: When my parents were on night shifts, I’d stay with my grandma as a young child, which I enjoyed as we would crochet together or do embroidery. I have a lot of special memories of being with her. The defining moment for me, however, was when I completed an internship as a young teenager at the Danish Design School. For me it was like entering a dream, seeing that I could study what I loved to do and what I felt like I was good at.
ICON: You draw inspiration from traditional techniques and use them in new and explorative ways. That early influence of your grandmother is still visible in your collections today.
CB: This love of creating with my hands and making things come alive has always been there. My favourite part is still having that time to create – whether that’s drawing a dress for the collection or embroidering some swatches to see what could work – for me there is something quite meditative in that phase.
ICON: Besides your grandmother, can you tell us about who else has influenced your work as a designer?
CB: I am inspired by other female artists and creatives. I am lucky to surround myself with good creative friends like Sophie Bille Brahe, a jewellery designer, and I also look up to my friend Megumi Shauna Ara who lives in New York. I admire their femininity and how they choose to express themselves creatively. Watching them create and seeing how their voices have evolved over the years, inspires me to find my voice, too.
Photography courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen
ICON: Cecilie Bahnsen is a women-led and driven business, from the supply chain to the boardroom. Is the strength of women and this feeling of sisterhood something you feel strongly about? The brand embraces many different ideas of femininity – what does it mean to you?
CB: My take on femininity is linked to creativity and self-expression. It’s important that a woman wearing the collection feels they can still be themselves. We’re a brand that wants to grow with the women wearing our clothes, and I think there is a certain type of femininity and power in that. We can come together and create, so it’s not necessarily just about the clothes, but also about the community and universe we’re hoping to build.
ICON: I think one of the qualities that encapsulates Cecilie Bahnsen is ‘everyday couture’ – balancing volume and shapes to create striking collections for everyday life. Can you tell us more?
CB: In the studio ‘everyday couture’ is an idea we work from, which combines Scandinavian influences, but also my Parisian design background. We aim to find a balance between being comfortable in what you wear and feeling effortless, but also needing this love and passion in how a garment is created. It’s a hard balance to find, but I think it is the essence between those two worlds of comfort and couture that defines who we are. I draw a lot of inspiration from how the girls in the studio wear the collection or seeing people around me wearing the designs that I create and making those their own.
ICON: For SS24, you showcased the care and craftsmanship that goes into creating your pieces. Do you think couture is a form of art?
CB: For me it is. Especially in this day and age, there’s something special about cherishing creativity, and craftsmanship, and taking the time to create something from scratch. I appreciate the skilled people I am allowed to work with daily, and with the show I wanted to honour that romance and love that goes into creating a collection.
Photography courtesy of Cecilie Bahnsen
ICON: As you’ve pointed out, the brand beautifully blends Scandinavian minimalism with playful, romantic and unexpected touches. You have lived in Paris and London but are firmly rooted in Copenhagen today. How does the city, and specifically your new HQ in Østerbro which you moved into last year, inspire your approach to fashion and design?
CB: I still feel a sense of home in both places – I’ve taken the romance from Paris, while London has inspired me to find my voice. The city has an electricity and passion for new talent and ideas, and I hope I have carried on that spirit. Our new home in Østerbro reminds me a little bit of East London, as the area has an industrial vibe. It’s a creative neighbourhood and there are a lot of architects and photographers.
ICON: The space has been designed in collaboration with architects Stamuli, the brand’s long-time creative agency MOON, and you. We can see some fantastic design features – Patchwork curtains are composed of up-cycled fabrics and memories of past seasons, while the furniture and kitchens are custom-made by a local carpenter. There are Magniberg’s sleek stainless- steel furnishings, Nina Nørgaard’s fluid glassware, and Artek stools placed throughout the studio space, repurposed from previous runway shows…
CB: We shot our campaign here four years ago, so the space has a lot of history for the brand. Moving from a basement to the top floor, and having lots of daylight, allows us to see the colours of a collection and the way the clothes move. We decided to create a gallery-inspired vibe that incorporates everything that has inspired us over the years – the different collaborations and store installations we’ve worked on and the creative people we’re lucky enough to surround ourselves with. We wanted to make them a part of our new home.
ICON: The Østerbro space will also become a place of culture and design to host events. For SS24, French singer Suki’s breath was laced over a composition by Danish composer August Rosenbaum, while visual artist Freja Sofie Kirk created a video installation. You work stretches across disciplines, from art to music to fashion to design – whole else do you see the brand teaming up with in the future?
CB: Opening up the studio and letting people see the craftsmanship and the people who have worked on a piece tell our story as a brand. Collaborations provide me with so much inspiration for future collections.
Photography by Elizabeth Heltoft
ICON: One of your more recent projects with ASICS saw you collaborating with Japanese photographer Takashi Homma whom you’ve admired since your early teenage years. Can you share what it is about Japan – from your collaboration with Takashi Homma to finding inspiration for your SS21 collection through the lens of Hashimoto Shoko – that you love so much?
CB: I love Japan’s street style and seeing how people put an outfit together. There is this perfect balance of respecting heritage and craft, but also a dose of playfulness and creativity. When I see a woman in Tokyo wearing my clothes in her own way I feel so flattered. The collaboration with ASICS has been rewarding as it has allowed us to tell our story and how we might wear something, so this idea of putting on a dress with trainers, which has a certain ‘Copenhagen-ness’ to it. It’s important to find collaborators who share the same values as us, but we also want to collaborate in a way where we can strengthen each other as brands as well.
ICON: You have described your collections as everyday couture. How has Cecilie Bahnsen as a brand evolved and how do you stay true to your DNA?
CB: The brand and collections have grown with me over the years. I’ve become a mother, and it’s nice to see how Cecilie Bahnsen speaks to women at different phases of their lives, too. It can be hard with the pressure of newness, but I think as a young brand it’s also important to stay true to yourself and to let that be enough.
ICON: The idea of passing on a dress is a core part of your ethos. You have launched your Encore collection (archive designs made to order from deadstock materials), a repair service and you will soon introduce a resale platform. Last year you collaborated with ASICS on a limited range of styles using excess stock, pulling surplus beading and embroidery from the brand’s archives, with the proceeds from the sale donated to the international non-profit organisation, Right to Play. How do you design for longevity?
CB: I’ve been stubborn to produce timeless pieces and to never let go of what we’ve already done, but constantly turning that on its head. I love women wearing pieces in a new context or passing on their dress to a friend.
ICON: What accomplishments are you most proud of?
CB: Sometimes, I can’t quite believe that it’s possible to create and live from what I love. I am proud of my team, who is like my second family to me. And then of course I am proud of my son and boyfriend who are deeply connected to everything I do. We have this dream and want to see how far we can go, but we also remind ourselves to celebrate how far we’ve already got.
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